Wearable computing is now increasingly common whether wearing smart watches or clothes that light up. The pioneer of the latter was Japanese artist, Tanaka Atsuko, with her 1950s art work, Electric Dress. It was anything but light though, weighing 50-60kg, clothing her head to foot in a mixture of fluorescent and normal light bulbs.
She was a member of the influential Gutai (meaning concrete as opposed to abstract) Art Association and Zero Society of Japanese artists who pioneered highly experimental performance and conceptual art, that often included the artist’s actual body. The Electric Dress was an example of this, and she experimented with combining art and electronics in other work too.
Atsuko had studied dress-making as well as art, and did dress making as a hobby, so fashion was perhaps a likely way for her to express her artistic ideas, but Electric Dress was much more than just fashion as a medium for art. She had the idea of the dress when surrounded by the fluorescent lights in Osaka city centre. She set about designing and making the dress and ultimately walked around the gallery wearing it when it was exhibited at the 2nd Gutai Art Exhibition in Tokyo. Once on it flashed the lights randomly, bathing her in multicoloured light. Wearing it was potentially dangerous. It was incredibly hot and the light was dazzling. There was also a risk of electrocution if anything went wrong! She is quoted as saying after wearing it: “I had the fleeting thought: Is this how a death-row inmate would feel?”
It wasn’t the first time, electric lights had been worn, since as early as 1884 you could hire women, wearing lights on their heads powered by batteries hidden in their clothes, to light up a cocktail party, for example. However, Tanaka Atsuko’s was certainly the most extreme and influential version of a light dress, and shows how art and artists can inspire new ideas in technology. Up to then, what constituted wearable computing was more about watch like gadgets than adding electronics or computing to clothes.
Now, of course, with LEDs, and conductive thread that can be sewn into clothes and special micro-controllers, an electric dress is both much easier to make, and with programming skill you can program the lights in all sorts of creative ways. One example is a dress created for a BBC educational special of Strictly Come Dancing promoting the BBC micro:bit and showing what it was capable of with creativity. Worn by professional dancer, Karen Hauer, in a special dance to show it off, the micro:bit’s accelerometer was used to control the way the LEDs covering the dress in place of sequins, lit up in patterns. The faster she spun while dancing the more furious the patterns of the lights flashing.
Now you can easily buy kits to create your own computer-controlled clothes with online guides to get you started, so if interested in fashion and computer science why not start experimenting. Unlike Tanaka Atsuko you won’t have to put your life at risk for your art and wearable computing, overlapping with soft robotics is now a major research area, so it could be the start of a great research career.
by Paul Curzon, Queen Mary University of London
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- The Art of Computer Science [portal]
- Wearable Computing and Fashion [portal]
- Electric Dreams and Solid Light at the Tate Modern
- Claude Shannon: inventing for the fun of it
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- BBC Strictly Micro:bit [EXTERNAL]
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